remaining time in thailand

There's going to be quite a bit of travelling backwards and forwards next week, to enable me to get to the remaining places I want to see in Thailand, and I might be unable to find the time to blog until late in the week as a result.

So here's the plan ahead of time: Monday to Wednesday I'll either be in, or travelling to and from, the northern city of Sukhothai. I leave first thing tomorrow morning. It takes seven hours each way approximately. On Thursday morning (having got back to Bangkok late Wednesday night) I'll be heading south of Bangkok to the coast and the beach resort of Pattaya for a few days rest and a look around. I'll return to Bangkok (again) on Sunday night where I'll spend a couple of days tying up loose ends.

On the morning of 9 August I leave by bus at 7am for Siem Reap in Cambodia (my second country), armed with American Dollars, a 26 day Visa, and a polite demeanour for the border guards. I've been told to expect an uncomfortable 12 hour journey. So, no doubt, a 15 hour journey in reality.

Will hopefully be able to make an entry from Sukhothai, detailing what it's like, but if I can't find an internet cafe then it will be Thursday/Friday in Pattaya before you hear from me.

limits

A few days ago I discovered one of my limits. We were coming back from the bridge over the river Kwai when our tour bus stopped at the nearby 'Tiger Temple.' This had not been on our day trip tour itinerary. It was an added extra, at an added cost - if you wanted to go in that is.

We got out and the guide told us that the Tiger Temple was a tiger sanctuary run by Buddhist monks, and that for a small fee we could go inside a cage with a tiger and have our photo taken sitting next to it. We shouldn't worry about the tiger ripping our bodies to shreds, we were told, because the monks can control the tigers 'only with their hand.' I was looking around me as this was being said, and noticed simultaneously a sign by the entrance saying, 'clothing colours which can enrage tigers,' one of which was the colour of my shirt.

That was it. I was out of the queue.

'What? You no want photo with tiger?' I was asked. 'No I don't,' I answered a bit freaked out, 'and I'm not paying for this either.' I went over to the cafe area in the car park and sulked for 10 minutes as everyone else went in.

I'm sorry, but you expect me to go inside a cage with a tiger, protected only by a monk armed with...Buddhist Law??? It's not happening.

It was after that I realised what was probably going on. The rest of the group came back about 15 minutes later, fairly appalled, saying that the tiger had been unconscious and seemed to have been drugged. In a heartbeat my complete cowardice turned into a moral stand. 'You were so right to refuse to go in,' various people started saying, and one guy said, 'you really know how to travel.' Wise after the event I replied confidently, 'I knew there was something up. I knew it.' I didn't. I'd just been terrified of being eaten by a tiger.

central thailand

Earlier today, as the driver of my bus pulled on to the hard shoulder (to over take three lorries), it occured to me that I've been neglecting the blog for the last few days, and that an entry is long over due. So here we go...

It's been a busy week and there's a lot to update. On Tuesday: I walked the streets of Bangkok and took in the National Assembly, the Zoo, and the Chitralada Royal Palace (home of the King of Thailand) amongst other things. Nothing of note really happened but I did enjoy wandering the streets in a 'wow I'm in Bangkok' type way. I also found some amazing food stalls to eat at which I had previously not discovered.

On Wednesday: I got up at 6am, and beat a passage to Damnoen Saduak, a couple of hours outside Bangkok, to see the famous floating market. The river and stilted wooden riverside buildings were quaint, and made me feel as though I had travelled backwards a hundred years through time. The place was, however, swamped with tourists and this spoilt the effect to an extent.

I floated around the market in a wooden boat with about four or five others, a lad paddling at the back. As we turned one corner a sales-woman latched on to me, wanting me to buy a Vietnamese hat. She kept on and on at me: 'I give you good price man,' and 'tell me your price.' Eventually I gave in and, much to the amusement of everyone else in the boat, typed in on her calculator my opening bid of 1 baht (0.0142095p).

This wasn't the best move.

She snatched it back, muttering what appeared to be an impressive buffet of Thai expletives. Her language was colourful, I'll give her that, although it did lose some volume as she kicked our boat away from hers.

(I apologised to her later for messing about when we paddled back that way).

I got back to Bangkok from the floating market in time to wander down to one of the piers on the Chao Phrayo River (the Bangkok 'Thames'), and catch a ferry up and down the river. Knackered after, I retired to the Chada Hotel, which for your information remains as hot as hell (not too hot for me though) and has satisfactory laundry facilities.

On Thursday: I spent the day at Kanchanaburi, site of the famous bridge over the river Kwai, built by prisoners of war under Japanese command. Or rather I spent the day at site of the reconstructed bridge over the River Kwai. The original was blown up by Allied Forces in 1944. I had a tour guide with me through the day.

Thailand, of course, used to be known as Siam, but in 1939 they decided to rename themselves Thailand, meaning 'free land,' in recognition of the fact that, unlike the rest of south east Asia, they had never been colonised or invaded by a foreign power. Straight after, and with impeccably poor timing the Japanese invaded, in order to push through their much needed transport links to Burma, and decided to use prisoners of war to complete the work.

We went first to the cemetary which is the last resting place of 6000 of the Commonwealth (British, Australian, Indian) and Dutch prisoners who died whilst constructing the 'Death Railway,' so called because a man died for every single wooden sleeper laid down - most of them several years younger than me I couldn't help but note. As with the other war graves I have seen, the cemetary was beautifully tended and had a wonderfully serene feel about it.

Then we went to the Jeath War Museum. All I will say about this is that they seemed to mean well. You know what that means.

We then went to the bridge itself. I walked right across it and back again. As you may gather, if there is a health and safety executive in Thailand - which I doubt - they certainly seem to have their feet well and truely up. Hence at the bridge there were no safety barriers, no hand rails, and no real floor either - you just had to clamber along the wooden sleepers, and rail track hoping you didn't plunge down into the deep blue yonder. Must admit I did feel a certain excitement clambering across.

And today. I've been several hours north of Bangkok to the former capital: Ayuthaya. And what an absorbing place it is. Ayuthaya was the capital from 1350 until 1767 when the Burmese invaded it, nicked all the treasures, burnt most of the place down, and forced the Thai government down to Bangkok, from which it never returned. I've seen more Buddha's and Wat's today than you've had hot dinners. For posterity, I visited amongst others: Phra Si Sanphet, Wihaan Pra Mongkhon Bophit, and Wat Phra Mahathat. Look them up on the Internet if you're having a slow day, or even easier: go to my photos section.

So finally: the following is a conversation I've had several times with Tuk Tuk drivers, and reveals a little about what is known about the British abroad...

The Scene: me walking down the street minding my own business. A Tuk Tuk driver approaches.

Tuk Tuk Driver: Hello man. Where you go?

Charlie: Just round the corner to my hotel.

Tuk Tuk Driver: You need Tuk Tuk?

Charlie: No thanks.

Tuk Tuk Driver: Eh man. Where you from?

Charlie: England.

* Pause *

Tuk Tuk Driver: Oh England!!! Luvverly jubberly, man!!!!

If you hear 'lovely jubbly' said by a Thai man, with a Thai accent, and it doesn't bring a smile to your face then - I'm sorry - but you're not human.

back to bangkok

Day: 26. Location: Bangkok. Weather: Gas Mark 7. Time: 12.15pm.

Boarded a public bus in Phuket station yesterday morning at 6.30am, and left for Bangkok about 15 minutes later. The bus passed through Takua Pa, Ranong, Chumphon, Bang Saphan, Hua Hin, Petchaburi, and Samut Sakhon, and finally arrived at the Southern Bus Terminal in Thonburi, Bangkok, 15 hours later at 9.45pm. My ticket cost me 501 baht (7 pounds, 16 pence).

The journey was pretty good, and I'm glad I chose to travel by day rather than night (you can see more). I'm also glad I travelled on the Thai bus system (as opposed to tourist buses), as I was the only non-Thai on board. It felt authentic and helped me feel as though I was beginning to earn my wings as an independent traveller. The downside was that no-one could speak English, including the driver and conductor, so communication was limited.

As we neared Ranong we ran along the border with Myanmar (formerly Burma). The Thai-Myanmese Border can at times be volatile and this was evidenced by our being stopped and searched by the Thai Army and Police three times at checkpoints. I wasn't, but some passengers were searched by blank faced soldiers in khaki uniforms, and had their belonging rifled through.

The journey was slowed by what I felt were an excessive number of stops for breaks. We must have stopped six or seven times, and this inevitably contributed to our eventual arrival three hours later than scheduled. I took the lateness in my stride, and no-one else seemed to bat an eye lid. As we got later and later I imagined the complaining and whining you would get from passengers in a similar situation in England.

It made me think of the time last year when I was on a train in Berkshire which hit a teenager crossing the tracks. The train ground to a halt with the teen still alive underneath, and a two hour delay ensued as emergency services tried to extricate him and get him to hospital (I know this because they kept making announcements, and it was also reported on the BBC website). It only took about 15 minutes for people in my carriage to start muttering intolerantly, 'they just don't think do they, these people, about the inconvenience it causes others,' oblivious to the idea that a young person might be dying beneath them. One complete arse demanded free drinks from the obviously shocked and distressed conductor, who had just returned from under the train. He was rightly told to sit down and shut up. How would such people handle the Thai bus system?

Anyway, on a lighter note, now I'm back in Khao San Road, staying at the Chada Guest House, in homage to my good friend Raj Chadha (sorry I couldn't find a place with an 'h' in the name - slightly too tall an order). Like the man: it's hot as hell, right in the centre of things, and doesn't cost you the Earth.

My room, Room 408, is completely tiled, with the effect that it feels like an excessively large shower cubicle. There's no furniture, just two single beds with linen covered in images of Snoopy. It's a bit odd, and I'd imagine could be rather disorientating to be in if you were drunk, or high, or just tired and emotional.

Some bright spark has graffitied the door of my room with sentiments regarding future Israeli/Palestinian unity. In a futile gesture, I have added below in biro that Israeli is spelt 'Israeli' not 'Isreali' just in case the naive teen responsible for the black marker daubings nostalgically returns.

This is hotel number six, by the way.

Monday (today) being the day of rest, I'm taking it easy. The rest of my day will be spent: eating, reading, eating, planning this week, eating, and perhaps watching a couple of movies in a bar. And then eating. I haven't seen 'Snatch,' or 'The Da Vinci Code' for a few weeks now so maybe it's time for a revisit.

Laa Kawn.

scams and snorkels

There is a famous taxi driver scam in Thailand known as 'The Gem Scam.' Taxi drivers agree to take you to a desination, but then mid-route take you to a gem store, or perhaps a tailors, where sales people put the hard sell on you, and the taxi driver becomes reluctant to let you leave until you have bought something. In reward for bringing you to their store the sales people give the taxi driver a coupon with which he can buy petrol.

I was having some dinner on Wednesday night when a local taxi driver, Mr Lemon, came and sat with me, and asked me if I knew of this scam? I told him that I did. I was well aware of it. He said he didn't want to rip me off, but there was a gem shop around the corner, and he wondered whether I would be willing to spend ten minutes running down there, so that he could collect a petrol coupon and get some petrol. I would go in for two minutes, say how interesting everything looked, then say no thank you very much and leave. He would charge me nothing - of course - and run me back to the restaurant or my hotel without delay or messing about, whichever I preferred. It would really help him out, he said, but he would understand if I didn't fancy it.

I was at a bit of a loose end, and in a good mood, so I thought what the hell. The worst that could happen would be getting stuck in a shop for a bit. However, it all went to plan and he dropped me back, with a big smile on his face, at my hotel about 10 minutes later.

I really liked Mr Lemon, he was very chatty, and spoke excellent English, and we had an interesting talk in the car about a variety of things.

I wanted to talk more to him about life in Phuket, the effects of the Tsunami here, and all things Thai, so I asked him if he was free the following morning, and - if it would help him - whether he would like to raid a few more gem shops (they're everywhere), as long as the same rules applied i.e. it was accepted that I would buy nothing, and that I would spend no more than two to five minutes in each shop, and we didn't take too long.

Naturally, he was free, and this is what a Bury and a Lemon did. We took about 30 minutes, going to three or four shops, and netted quite a few litres of petrol in this time. What I got out of it was to chat to an interesting local, and ask all the questions that have been occuring to me over here. Didn't spend a penny and he was happy to talk.

Afterwards, I asked if I could buy him lunch, and he gave me more advice on where to go/avoid in Phuket and how to use the inexpensive public transport system - something which had been perplexing me. I really enjoyed meeting him, and he never once suggested that I should buy something. He also explained to me why he has never been to any of the beautiful islands here. He can't swim and he's scared of water.

Moving on. On Friday, I went for the day to Ko Phi Phi, where I did some sightseeing by boat (saw 'The Beach'), and then went snorkelling amongst coral reef; tropical fish darting all around me. It was cool seeing the kind of illuminous and brightly coloured fish you only ever normally see in small heated fish tanks actually swimming freely in the water, and on a couple of occasions getting nipped by them.

Spent the afternoon lying on the beautiful beach, sobered at times, by the thought that the entire resort town behind me had been utterly flattened by a tidal wave only a year and a half ago on that fateful Boxing Day. Apart from deliberate memorials there is no evidence of there having been a Tsumani here whatsoever. Everything is completely rebuilt.

At the end of the afternoon me and my surnburnt knees wandered back onto the boat home, and whiled away the time with an attractive Canadian called Shannon.

charlescisco burimanga

Been in Phuket Town a couple of days now. My first day was spent relaxing, and taking care of administrative duties: checking my budget and how much I've spent (I'm on target); locating some good local food; blogging; planning an itinerary for my stay here; and getting my laundry done. All have now been actioned.

Yesterday, I went on a day trip to Phang-Nga province, just north of Phuket Island. Once in Phang-Nga we boarded a Longtail Boat, and trundled out into Ao Phang-Nga, 'a scenic bay of mangrove forests and limestone caves virtually melting with wax-like stalactites...ringed by limestone mountains as if bony fingers had struck through the surface of the earth and hardened forever' (Lonely Planet: 2006, p.783).

Ao Phang-Nga is indescribably beautiful, and no hamfisted attempt at putting its beauty into words can do it justice. Raj: for the record I thought it was even more beautiful than our visit to Mount Bromo in Indonesia last year...something I never thought I'd say. This, therefore, makes it the most wonderful place I've ever been to.

First stop was 'James Bond Island,' so called because it was the location for Francisco Scaramanga's island lair in 'The Man with The Golden Gun.' As I stood on the island beach I thought of Roger Moore, in a safari suit no doubt, looking Christopher Lee in the eye and confidently intoning, 'you won't get away with this Scaramanga,' and Christopher Lee replying, 'ahhh, but I already have Mr Bond. I already have.'

For the record, Roger Moore is the best James Bond. No question. I'm willing to accept that Sean Connery was a very, very good Bond, but nobody can raise an eyebrow to a supervillain like Moore.

Next we moved on to Panyee Village, a floating village in the bay, for lunch. In my experience lunches on trips of this kind are usually pretty pathetic, meagre affairs, but not in this case. It was a feast fit for a Thai king. Plate after plate of delicious Thai food kept arriving at our table in what felt like a never ending stream. I'm not ashamed to say I made a complete pig of myself, and embarrassed my country. The fried fish had to be tasted to be believed.

In the afternoon we chugged on to an elephant farm, resident at which were what our Thai host referred to proprietorially as fifteen 'Asian' elephants (more commonly known to you and me as 'Indian' elephants). While we were there I went for a ride on a female elephant called, inexplicably, 'Linda.' It was brilliant. I felt like an Indian Rajah. Thankfully Linda chose not to stampede into the wilderness and freedom, instead plodding with me on top for a leisurely ten minute stroll around the elephant farm.

Most of the people on the day trip were families, and I spent most of the day with an Egyptian doctor from Cairo called Dr Issam, his wife Laila, their daughter, and a couple called Abhi and Sonika who were on their honeymoon from Delhi. I spent much of the day explaining to Laila why, at 28, I am still not married to a nice girl, and talking to Abhi and Sonika about their wedding - all of India's billion people seem to have attended. Interestingly, Sonika recruits people to work in the Indian call centres which give information in the UK - including on British rail enquiries. She said her company employed 10 000 call centre operators!

I got back to the hotel about 5pm, and retired to a nearby cafe for a coke, and to listen to some delightful Jack Johnson ballards. Slowly I edited my seventy, or so, photos down to twenty, and treated myself to some chocolate chip cookies, because, as they say at L'Oreal, 'I'm worth it.'

photos

I've added some more photos to my photo album.

This is the last time I'm going to write this here on the blog because it's getting repetitive. So if you want to see my photos keep checking my photos link regularly - I'm adding a couple of pictures each time I blog, so it's worth checking.

Also, changing subject, if you're reading this from Europe, or America, please lobby your government now to export music to Thailand that is not by Boyzone or Jack Johnson. Write to your MP, hold a demonstration, do anything, but please, please help me.

I'm sick to death of hearing Ronan Keating on repeat in every bar I visit, and may do something drastic if I can't get access to some better tunes.

Remember, it only takes the good to stand by for evil to triumph.

onwards to phuket

I've spent the last couple of days reading the 'The Restaurant at the End of the Universe,' the second book of Douglas Adams's 'Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy' trilogy, and I haven't laughed so much for a long time. Poor old Arthur Dent doesn't seem to have much luck, but his misfortunes are always hilarious.

Last night was my last night on Ko Samui and I spent a pleasant evening in a restaurant with a Frenchman called Eric. He couldn't speak English very well so I had to resurrect the French I learnt at school. I was pleased to find that I did seem to be able to communicate with him on an at least basic level. I told him that I liked French films and that I had recently watched 'L'Boucher' and 'L'Homme Du Train' and thought both were excellent. This went down well.

At the beginning of the evening he told me that he was in Thailand on holiday because: 'my wife die.' I tried to express sympathy and attempted to smile comfortingly. 'Je suis desolee,' I said.

He referred to his late wife in the present tense several times as the evening went on, which I took as an indicator of him struggling to come to terms with the situation. 'He's having a tough time coping,' I thought.

It was only at about quarter past eleven that it dawned on me that four hours earlier what he'd actually said was: 'I in Thailand because my wife Thai.'

Merde.

I took a massive gulp of my beer, wondering what he must of thought of my commiserating over his wife's nationality. 'You bloody fool,' I reflected, also thinking 'best let sleeping dogs lie now.'

Imagine it...

Eric: I in Thailand because my wife is Thai.

Charlie: Ow....I'm so sorry. Are you ok? (Postive tone) This holiday will do you good.

I got up just after 5am this morning, and left on the bus just after 6am for the mainland, and my destination on the opposing coastline: Phuket. I was told the journey would take eight hours in total, and would involve getting a bus, a boat, and then a second bus. In fact, for reasons still unknown to me, it's taken eleven hours, and involved getting a bus, another bus, a boat, another bus, another bus, and then - just for good measure - another bus. It's been a long day, not made easier by lack of leg room. Still, I'm here now.

When we arrived I determined that I would walk to my hotel from the bus station, but a passing motorcyclist pulled up and offered to give me a lift. The price was right, and he whisked me straight down to my hotel: The On On Hotel.

And here I am. The On On Hotel is set back from the beach resorts of Phuket, in an area called Phuket Town. It caught my eye because it is reputedly (according to Lonely Planet) the hotel where opening scenes of 'The Beach' with Robert Carlyle and Leonardo DiCaprio were filmed - the very scenes I was joking about in this blog a couple of weeks ago, and now I'm actually in the hotel!

It's the most interesting place I've stayed since I've been here, but it is pretty squalid. The whole place has the musty smell of a stately home, and my room resembles one of the crew cabins on the Cutty Sark. But I'm very excited to be here, it's got real character, as has the surrounding area, which I'll explore more tomorrow. My room costs two pounds a night. I'll have to get some pictures of the building's 20s architecture.

OK. 8.30pm. It's been a long day. I'm tired and I'm going to retire up the stairs to Bedfordshire (after a quick Beer Chang over the road).

ps There was some speculation before I went away as to whether I would lose more weight out here. Well, weighed myself this morning, and I've lost one pound since 28 June so all is well on that front.

muay thai

Day 17, and I'm on Ko Samui. The main resort in Chaweng to be precise. I caught the ferry yesterday morning and it took about an hour to get down here. The weather had been lovely all morning, but a few minutes after we set sail the heavens opened, and the sea suddenly became extremely choppy.

I don't normally get sea sick, and I didn't this time, but I was 'nervous' as we proceeded. I tried to not to look out of the window too much, and chatted to a couple of trainee solicitors from Newcastle to take my mind off the mad rolling and creaking of the boat. It just about worked, and we got there eventually.

Lucky for me, I managed to get inside the lower decks, and so stayed dry, but there were a couple of hundred people who had to sit on top of the boat - they got drenched to the bone and looked distinctly green as they stepped back onto dry land (which was also wet because it was still bucketing down).

My first impression is that Ko Samui is far more developed than Ko Pha-Ngan, and has every western comfort you could ask for. There's a McDonalds, a Starbucks, and even a Boots. There are also lots of massive plush hotels and spas. The Lonely Planet says Ko Samui is a mega resort and you should just enjoy it for what it is, so that's what I'm doing trying to do.

The beach here in Chaweng is worthy of note: it's a 6km stretch of white sand, palm trees, and turquoise sea, although it is also over run with American families. I went for a run this morning along the sand, and intend to go again tomorrow.

OK. Confession time: I went to McDonalds yesterday for lunch. It was pretty much up to scratch, although I was perturbed by the absence of barbecue sauce. The best thing on the menu. Won't do it again. My wrist has been slapped.

Last night I headed over to the Chawang Stadium for an evening of Muay Thai (Thai kickboxing). I've never been to a boxing match before, and I'm surprised what a good time I had. There were about a dozen five round fights, some ending in points decisions, others in dramatic knockouts. One guy got his face slashed open in round 3 but bravely fought on to the end, embracing his opponent at the end of the fight.

Muay Thai differs from our boxing in that you can kick as well as punch. In fact, punching is considered fairly unimportant, the most prestigious shots being long kicks to the head, or knees to the abdominal area. The boxers were astonishingly accomplished athletes, and all decent sportsman.

It all made me wonder if I would like to go and watch some boxing when I get back to the UK? This would be an ideal thing to do with my Dad, who used to be a boxer, and then boxing trainer, in his younger days. Perhaps I'll ask him when I get home?

I had to stand for the National Anthem, in honour of the King of Thailand (Rama IX), before the boxing began. The Thai Royal Family, and the King in particular, are generally very highly revered by the people here. There are two things you don't do in Thailand, one is insult the Royal Family, and the other is slag off Buddhism. Avoid either of these acts and you should get by.

Factoid - the King of Thailand is the longest reigning monarch in the world. He's been the King for 60 years. He's also big into cameras.

full moon party

First things first. Happy Birthday Mum! I hope you have a lovely day. Sorry that I'm not at home, or even indeed in the same country. Take it easy today please. That's an order.

Second things second. Last night was the night of the Full Moon Party here on Ko Pha-Ngan. Once every month, at the time of the full moon, there is a massive dance festival/rave on the beach. Travellers and tourists drain from Thailand's four corners to attend, and many fly in from all over the world just for the party. The beach fills with thousands of dancers and revellers, and the fun doesn't stop until dawn. Actually, it doesn't even stop at dawn.

I had a good time, proof being my sore head this morning. I danced to the best of my abilities, and wandered the beach chatting to whoever I found. A lot of my night was spent detaching Thai women from my pelvis - not very easy for a number of reasons. I also spent a lot of time telling half the beach that I did not want to buy ecstacy from them, and then telling the other half that I did not have it to sell. Call me a prude but, being as I am, in a country plastered with 'drugs is death penalty' posters, I'm steering clear of this recreational leisure choice. Even if everyone else is doing it. But so it goes.

I turned it in around 3am, and got some decent sleep.

Everyone is out and about this morning, telling their tales of who vomited where, and asking 'what happened to Mick? Has anyone seen him yet?' I'm the only one on the island who seems to have had a shower, and taken my glow stick off.

I feel better now I've had my traditional Thai breakfast (Swiss Muesli), and plan to spend the rest of the day watching undemanding American movies in local bars, and drinking fruit juice. Collecting my washing is as strenous as it's going to get.

More photos added.

the idler

'I may not be rich, but at least I'm idle.' Bronco John, Tramp

I'm still in Ko Pha-Ngan, working hard at relaxing, and practising the art of being completely idle.

Most of the time I'm wandering around the beach, or lolling around in bars watching films and drinking soft drinks, or scanning the bookshops for Tom Sharpe's.

Not wanting to be totally inactive though, I've made the effort to find out what's happening with the World Cup, and note that France and Italy are in the final tonight. I predict a win for Italy, and this is what I think I'd prefer - not for any particular reason. I've also checked the Internet for news on Big Brother but didn't recognise a number of the house mates when I logged on. Not sure what's happened there?

I'm hanging on in Ko Pha-Ngan for a few more days because there's a Full Moon Beach Party on 12 July, and it seems a bit silly not to stay for this, but after I'll be ready to move on. Then I'm going to head over to Phuket, via a couple of days in Ko Samui, and then back up to Bangkok so I can start getting some culture in again.

I've added some more photos to my photo section. A couple of beach shots. As you'll see the weather is good here - it's hotter than the sun.

ko pha-ngan

I've moved south from Bangkok to sunny southern Thailand, and the famous Thai islands. I'm currently on Ko Pha-Ngan. The idea is to have a rest, and enjoy the beaches a bit.

My journey down here began on Tuesday night when I caught a bus outside Bangkok's Hualamphong Station. It took 13 hours to reach the port of Surat Thani, and a further four hours on a ferry across the Gulf of Thailand, first to Ko Samui, and then to my destination Ko Pha-Ngan. It took me longer to get down here than it took me to get from Heathrow to Bangkok believe it or not.

For the past two nights I have been staying in a quiet bay called Hat Khom on the north side of the island. It's been a very restful couple of days, and I've done very little except swing in a hammock whilst watching the waves of the Gulf of Thailand hit the shore. It was just me and the owner, plus his cleaning lady - who couldn't speak any English. I managed to get through a hefty chunk of the 'Hitchhiker's Guide To The Galaxy' whilst swaying back and forth, and communicated just enough with the cleaning lady to get her to wash all my clothes.

Rested and relaxed, and in a clean shirt, this morning I decided to head down to the southern side of the island, because this is where all the activity is. I arrived at Hat Rin about an hour ago, and suddenly I'm back full throttle into the world of commercial tourism, and internet cafes, and Bob Marley bars. I've got quite a nice room at a dirt cheap price, and it all feels nice and easy, so I think I might hang around in Hat Rin for a while.

on the beaten track

It's been an eventful few days. I was minding my own business in my room a few nights back when the actor Robert Carlyle started talking to me through an interconnecting hole in the wall. He seemed a bit mad and feverish, and was jibbering about an amazing beach he had been to. It was paradise, he said. A perfect island inhabited by a small group of idealistic hippies, led by the actress Cate Blanchett. However, the whole thing was a bit of a secret so he was reluctant to give me directions on his GPS. Eventually, I managed to get him to agree to give me a hand drawn map for this "beach" and I swam out there a few nights ago. Needless to say, after a brief honeymoon period, the utopia of which he eulogised turned out to be flawed, I went a bit mad and ran around the island for a while, and then I swam back. A bit narked if I'm honest. You may be thinking that these events bear a striking resemblance to the plot of 'The Beach' starring Leonardo Di Caprio. But I assure you it all happened to me and it's all true. No really. I did swim out to...and go and meet...ok, ok...I'll tell you the truth then... In reality, keen to learn more about Thai culture, on Friday I went to Bangkok's China Town district, and spent hours wandering the stalls. Alleyway after alleyway of covered market stalls sell everything from cloth, to spices, to jewellery, to lawnmowers. It's really worth a look, and there are good bargains to be had, although I didn't want anything myself. On Saturday, I went to the National Museum (useful to gain a bit of an overview of Thai history), the Grand Palace, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, and the Buddhist Temple, Wot Pho (I got a guide to take me round here). The Grand Palace, in particular was stunning, and I could have sat in the grounds all day. On Saturday night I watched England play Portugal in a bar with a Swiss Air Stewardess I met called Caroline, and my early night turned into a 4am turn in. Sunday, post lie-in, I jumped in a Tuk Tuk, and wizzed over to Siam Square to look around the shops. While I was there I met the local Chief of Police (he came up to me and asked me if I was enjoying myself in Thailand), and he ended up showing me round quite a bit of the area. I think he wanted to practice his English, and he had a lot of questions about what it was like in England. I happily chatted to him for nearly an hour on subjects such as the London congestion charge (he turned out to be in favour). He also asked me if I would like to go to a real Thai restaurant where they played classical Thai music, and gave me directions. I had a lovely meal there later that evening, and the music was wonderful. Today I'm going to try and catch a public ferry up the river, crossing over to the more old fashioned area to the east, called Thonburi. I'm also going to sit and do some planning because I think it's time to move on. South I think, to all the famous beaches and islands, so I can really relax and switch off. I haven't done everything in Bangkok yet, but I have to come back here (probably several times) so I'm happy for this to be the end of my introduction.

Finally, I'm pleased to say I've managed to add a photo section to this blog. If you look at the sidebar to the right of this page you should see 'My Photos.' Just click on there and there they be. My first ever digital pictures.

24 hours in bangkok

A big hello from Bangkok. I've arrived safe and sound! No mishaps along the way. No problems or delays. The first 24 hours is behind me.

The journey over here turned out to be very smooth. It couldn't have been better in fact. Andrew and Chloe dropped me off at Heathrow at about 8.30am on Wednesday morning (thanks again for letting me stay over guys), and as soon as I got inside Terminal 3 I was swept with excitement and anticipation.

Check in was smooth and simple. Amusingly, when I handed my passport to the check in clerk he looked at my passport photo and said, 'wow, you've lost weight,' a phrase I thought I wouldn't be hearing again for a while.

The first flight to Muscat in Oman took about 7 and 1/2 hours. I requested an aisle seat by the fire exit, which meant there were no seats in front of me, and I had masses of leg room (leg room is always my priority in such affairs). I sat next to a nice guy called Will who was on his way to meet his girlfriend, who has just travelled on land from Hong Kong to Bangkok.

The transfer in Oman was simple, and I was soon on my second flight to Bangkok. This took a further 6 hours. The seating was a little less ideal: this time I was next to an Omanian 10 year old who didn't speak any English. The conversation was limited. We mainly communicated by him accidentally, yet continually, jabbing me with his fork during the flight meal, or by him leaning into me after he had fallen asleep. We got by.

My only mistake during the 14 hours was watching the flight movie: 'Inspector Clouseau' starring Steve Martin. I know. I should have known better. About 15 minutes in I began to pray that I would be struck down with deep vain thrombosis so that the pain would end, but mercy never came. In the end it became an endurance test. How long I could I watch before falling comatose? 25 minutes for the record. I'm happy to say without fear of hyperbole that this is the worst film ever made, or that ever will be made, in the history of the universe.

After I arrived (at 8am Bangkok time) I caught a bus to my hotel, and was dropped off right outside. My hotel is lovely. It's called the Swasadee Bangkok Inn and it's on Khao San Road (Khao San Road is like Mecca for the backpacker). The motto below the hotel name says 'service of mind' and they've certainly provided me with that so far. My room has air-conditioning, and a television, so I'm not exactly roughing it as yet. There's also an open air restaurant and cafe on the ground floor, which is where I'm sitting right now.

I had a thai green vegetable curry and a couple of beers in the evening, and then turned in for a good night's sleep. I think I've pretty much conquered any jet lag already.

All feels well so far, and I'm very pleased and excited to be here. No moments of panic, or thinking 'what am I doing?' yet, but it's early days I guess.

Anyway, I've got a date with some Buddha statues. Will be in touch soon. x

Full name: Kingdom of Thailand
Population: 64.1 million (UN, 2005)
Capital: Bangkok
Area: 513,115 sq km (198,115 sq miles)
Major language: Thai
Major religion: Buddhism
Life expectancy: 66 years (men), 74 years (women) (UN)
Monetary unit: 1 baht = 100 satangs
Main exports: Food and live animals, office equipment, textiles and clothing, rubber
GNI per capita: US $2,750 (World Bank, 2006)
Internet domain: .th
International dialling code: +66