mumbai

Mumbai (known until 1996 as Bombay) is the economic power house of India, and with a population of approximately 16/18 million people (some estimates suggest 20 million) it is one of the largest settlements on earth. There are several million more people living here than in Delhi, and they all squeeze into an area about a third of the size. Built on a collection of islands off the west coast of Maharashtra, Mumbai is joined to the mainland by bridges and land reclamations. As you can imagine it's a city alive with action and energy, and something is going on at every street corner. You can't walk far in Mumbai without spotting interesting colonial or art deco architecture, or one of the distinctive yellow and black city taxis which bomb around like metal bumble bees with roof racks. Mumbaikers themselves seem to be as open and friendly as anywhere in India, and I've seen lots of modern/western looking types. Along Marine Drive in particular sari's seem to have given way entirely to jeans and tight tops.

I arrived by train on Friday morning at the famous Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (formerly known as Victoria Terminus). It must be one of the most beautiful railway stations in existence and even after the rigours of the night train I found myself mesmerised by the exuberant gothic exterior.

I've been staying at the Sea Shore Hotel in Colaba. My hotel looks out over Mumbai Harbour and the famous Gateway of India. The Gateway of India, completed in 1924, stands at 26 metres tall and was built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary in 1911. It has become one of the signature structures of India, and it didn't remain in British hands for long. As fate had it, only 23 years after completion the last British regiment left the country through this most British of monuments. It was the final full stop on the days of the British Raj.

In terms of exploring, I've had a good look around Colaba, the Fort area, Churchgate, and yesterday I walked across the maidans and the entire length of Marine Drive until I got to Chowpatty Beach (where I stopped to try the Bhelpuri). Today I've been to Elephanta Island which was recommended to me by my Auntie Caroline, who used to live in Mumbai some years ago. It was a good recommendation: I enjoyed catching the ferry over to Elephanta (a small island which sits in the middle of Mumbai Harbour) and trekking up to the rock cut caves in the hill side. Their origins and history are a bit of a mystery so I can't tell you an awful lot about them I'm afraid, but I can tell you that the walk up to them is lovely and that they are well worth going to see.

Mumbai is, of course, the well known home of the 'Bollywood' film industry, and in homage I've been to see a couple more films at the cinema. I've seen three: 'Naqaab' and 'Apne' which both star Bobby Deol and also 'Partner' which is an Indian re-make of the American film 'Hitch.' Seeing 'Partner' was particularly pleasing because it stars one of India's most famous actors, Salman Khan, someone I've wanted to see on screen for a while now. That takes the total number of Indian films I've seen to the final number of 13 which I think is not bad going really.