After writing my blog entry yesterday evening I went over to my favourite haunt in KL, the Reggae Bar on Jalan Tun HS Lee, for a last couple of Carlsberg beers, and to toast Malaysia before leaving.
I've come to feel very fondly about the Reggae Bar over the last month; in fact it's probably my favourite bar in South East Asia. Time and again it's provided me with cool sanctuary whilst I've been hopping in, out, and around Malaysia, Singapore, and Borneo, and it was also the venue for part of my New Year's Eve celebrations. The bar staff have got to know me a bit, and one woman in particular, called Emmy, sees to it that my glass always gets refilled before it is empty whenever I am resident for a few hours. The low lighting at night time allows you limited vision of the grey stone floor and the green walls which are covered with framed Bob Marley memorabilia. At the back is a pool table and outside the front entrance a small stall selling pizza. It's nicely done out, it has to be said.
They played Bob Marley's greatest hits on frequent repeat last night, but also fitted in lots of other music too: Malaysian Ska for a while, and stuff like Massive Attack and that song which has the chanting monks - can't remember what it's called, but you know the one I'm talking about. 'Red Red Wine' by UB40 came on around midnight, and I was very pleased to hear it. Last year when I did some travelling across Indonesia with my friend Raj we seemed to hear UB40 in every bar we went to, leading us to eventually feel short changed if we went somewhere and it wasn't played. Hearing it last night brought back happy memories of Jakarka, Kuta, and Lovina Beach - another great holiday I've been lucky to have.
They consistently get their prices wrong in the Reggae Bar (this is something you have to watch) and you get charged a different amount for a beer each time you go in, and sometimes as frequently as each time you order. This got on my nerves a bit to begin with, but I've come to find it endearing and I accept it now as part of the charm of the place. Last night I was charged yet another price, ten ringgit a beer, which is lower than the last time I went in but higher than some other previous occasions. The difference is negligible to my English purse so I can't say as I care all that much.
I feel rather sad that it's unlikely I'll ever go back to the Reggae Bar again, but I can at least recommend the experience to others who might be passing through - so if you're ever in Kuala Lumpur I suggest you pop in, say hello to Emmy, buy yourself a couple of beers, and enjoy the Marley-fest. Here is their address should thoust require it:
2 comments:
The chanting monks record was probably Enigma - The Sadness (Part 1). Off the top of my head I think it was released in 1990.
Yeah - that's it I think. There are pipes as well and a woman comes whispering sexily in on the chorus, then the monks chant a bit and so it goes on.
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