Wednesday, September 27, 2006

sapa

I've just finished watching the Vietnamese version of 'Who Wants To Be A Millionnaire.' Given that a million dong (the national currency) is only worth thirty two pounds I'm not surprised the contestants looked unenthusiastic.
I'm in Sapa, and I'm staying at the Hotel San Phong Huong (Room 302). The hotel is perched precariously on a steep hillside which looks across at Fansipan Mountain (the largest and highest in country) and the clouds which float around its peak. I've got a third floor view out over the scenary. It's peaceful and wonderful. Sapa is sublime. A French hill station built in 1922, it is the most popular destination in North-West Vietnam. The surrounding hills are enormous, and very mysterious - because mist and cloud keeps rising and falling over them. Sometimes you can see everything, and a few hours later you can see nothing, just mist.
I enjoyed catching the night train up here; the journey was a breeze. I had a bed in a small wooden cabin which I shared with three Spaniards called Isobel, Ebse, and Dego. The train left promptly at 10pm, and I soon fell asleep under the duvet in my comfortable bunk bed (snoring loudly no doubt). I slept through until 6am, and we arrived at Lao Cai station at about 6.20am, so I can't really tell you an awful lot about what the journey was like. From there I caught a minibus up to Sapa. This took further hour and a half, but it felt like no time at all.
The village itself is small and easy to navigate. There are only two or three streets which wind their way up and down the sections of hillside on which they are located. People from the local hill-tribes are wandering the streets, with babies stapped to their backs, trying to sell blankets and other local items. The predominant colour of their clothing is black. They look - physically - very different to the rest of the Vietnamese population in my opinion. Perhaps this is due to the proximity of China/Mongolia? There is one woman in particular walking around with a toddler who I keep noticing. The little girl is wearing a traditional hill-tribe costume, with one exception: a pairing of pink plastic shoes which have squeakers in the soles. This means that every step she takes makes a little squeak, and consequently you can hear her almost where ever she is in the village. Cuteness factor ten.
Also, wandering around I found a bar which I think my friends Raj, Liz, and Ella would love. It is called the Pink Floyd Bar, and has a spectacular view out over the hills. When I was walking past I heard the words: 'we don't need no education' booming out of the large open windows, down into the valley below. Pink Floyd must be on repeat here all day long, day in, day out. Raj and Liz both came to Vietnam a couple of years ago so perhaps they came here?
I spent yesterday relaxing, and intend to do much the same today. Tomorrow - weather permitting - I should be able to go out and see some of the hill-tribes in their small hamlets and villages. This should be interesting although I am a bit worried that my tour out will be a bit too 'touristy' and lacking in authenticity, but we will see.

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Unfortunately, we never went as far north as you have so we never experienced the delights of the Pink Floyd bar. We did sink a few ales in the Guns n Roses bar in Ho Chi Minh though. They had a huge picture of Axl Rose on the wall. It rocked.

I want to go to Sapa! It sounds amazing.

Charlie said...

Go, you must.