Battambang is Cambodia's second largest city. Having been here for twenty four hours I'd say it's no larger, geographically anyway, than my home town Lowestoft. It's a little less pretty than I'd imagined, because the roads are too widely spaced, making everywhere look a bit empty and out of proportion. And the town is dominated by a central indoor market which has been built in a style which would fit in well in any of the blandest concrete cities of the former Soviet Union.
However, it feels more 'Cambodian,' and that's a good thing. The pace of life also seems to be nice and slow - which is great, and the people are friendly enough. My hotel have not even bothered checking me in - they just gave me a key to a room and said not to worry: 'you look like good guy.' I could walk anytime without paying and no-one would know. I won't because they have flattered me with trust.
I caught the boat here from Siem Reap yesterday. A very slow but sure journey. The longtail boat chugged through old fashioned river villages, full of riverside bamboo huts on stilts, across Cambodia's largest lake - the Tonle Sap (which stretched the horizon when we first floated into it), and then along narrow waterways of a national park, until eventually seven and a half hours later we arrived in Battambang.
Being among the last to board the boat there was no seating left for me, so, with a few others, I climbed up onto the roof of the boat, and sprawled out on the tin top. A great novelty at first, although rather uncomfortable by the sixth hour.
I'm staying at the Chhaya Hotel (Room 230) in the town square. It's notable mainly for its bland non-descript design, and the effort which the architect has taken in poorly positioning the windows, doors, and general asthetics of the building. My room has a television which has been helping me get in touch with Cambodian rap, soap opera, and karaoke.
To be honest, I'm thinking of cancelling this trip so that I can use my remaining money to adopt as many Cambodian children as possible. They're more beautiful than any of the temples here, and I keep feeling I want to take them back to England and look after them Angelina Jolie style, or at the very least lay out for their schooling and clothing for the next eighteen years.
Not practical I suppose.
Strange fact: 50% of Cambodia's entire population is under fifteen years old (because of the Khmer Rouge genocide). You can kind of sense this as you travel around. Kids are everywhere, and there are a fair few young adults, but you rarely see an old person.
3 comments:
Hey Charlie,
Cambodia looks amazing - never really thought about it as a holiday destination before but will definitely be on my list of places to visit before the arthritis sets in. There are an awful lot of steps, aren’t there? Good to see you looking so well and relaxed. Travelling clearly suits you. The old me would at this point remark on the cosy nature of the photo of yourself and Lak, but the new, improved me wouldn't stoop that low.
Salima. xxx
You'd love it.
The only problem is the undeveloped transport situation, but - as long as you stay patient - this just serves to make it feel more of an adventure.
Don't book anything yet though - wait until I've been through Laos: people keep telling me it is the best of the S.E.A. bunch. We'll see.
My legs were trembling when I finally got to the top of Angkor Wat, and I had to sit down away from the ledge for a couple of minutes. I hate heights. But when you've got that far and you're so close to the top you just have to brave it and get on with it.
I won't bring more than ten kids back so it should be just about manageable.
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